Aganovich 0.3: Classy and futuristic, clothes that play like jigsaw puzzles

There is a time when you see something so brilliant, you feel ambivalent about announcing the awesomeness to the whole wide world because you may selfishly keep the news to yourself. The Serbian designer who is truly international – grew up in Copenhagen and educated in Rome and now finally bases in London, Nana Aganovich, a Central Saint Martin MA graduate, creates a captivating collection that makes me feel just like that. Nana and her partner Brooke Taylor explains this AW11 collection in their own words:
The collection emulates equal portions of a glamourous old movie as well as a futuristic flick. The protagonist could be a lady, chauffeured around in a Karmann Ghia, exiting the car into flashes of limelight. At the same time she can be a feminine commander, marches into a space shuttle, calling through the tannoy, announcing each andriod’s daily duties.
The couture is simple, and the aesthetic is respectful for the natural beauty of a woman. The forward thinking emulates from these clothes and the excellent craftsmanship adds to my enthusiasm for the label.
There is a mathematical quality about these dresses. A precise and executed curve rests on the chest which is reminescent of a camel back. The colour-blocked fabric juxtaposes each other to accentuate the contrast. Asymmetry is the certainly the keyword here, but having the correct balance in pushing such a design is of paramount too.
The AW11 collection was presented in Paris. The clothes featured in this article center on this collection.
Take Alexis Mabille, the new ‘enfant terrible’ as an example.By no means I am trying to villify Alexis’ creations – and as a matter of fact I’m rather fond of the collection – but the in-your-faceness somehow hinders the masses to stomach the clothes. Aganovich’s Spring Summer 2010 collection, on the other hand, spelt out the key to an auspicious result: be as adventurous as you want, but never tread too far from wearability.
The magic of the SS10 collection lies in its simplicity. The idea pivots on puzzles. The main dress can be topped with an asymmetric ornament piece – a strong shouldered pelerine like a short cape; a part truncated long cloak which can be cinched at the waist or an oversized single collar. This is a nice concept where one or two top pieces plus a couple of dresses give you an assortment of looks.
This is not to say that the dress in itself cannot survive without the decorative ‘puzzle’. Without the funky top-half, the main body is an elegant structure of fluidity and elegance. To inject the funk, some of the dresses are Kruella styled to split in the midriff: both colourwise, and pleat-wise. Clean pleats, clean decorative lines are all exquisitely sewed on. It’s funny how a combo can look so minimalist, but yet posseses so much details at the same time.
Put it simply, I haven’t felt so excited about a collection in so long. Etro, yeah, yeah. Louis Vuitton, meh. Sometimes I wonder why individual designers don’t get more credits than they deserve. This one here, conjures up so much
excitement I can barely contain myself!
Fact file
Nana Aganovich launched her womenswear label in 2005. In 2006, she showed a collection centered around ‘The Dream of Beef’ in Vauxhall Fashion Scout in 2006.
An activist since she was 15, she and her former partner designed a collection of clothes to take part in the May Day Riot in central London, with the models wearing clown make up.
She now designs with partner Brooke Taylor in Whitechapel with an atelier at a factory outside Hong Kong. The CSM MA graduate is a co-founder of the Missing Sock studio in Hong Kong, as well as a contributor on ShowStudio. Her label is now named Aganovich 0.3 and shows in Paris in the form of sculpture/installation and clothes exhibition. Her website is www.aganovich.com but it is currently under construction.
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Paris Fashion Week Day Deux

Paris Fashion Week has opened to a rather mundane beginning. While techniques such as digital print and laser cut plus a mish-mash of ideas dominated the runways of London and Milan; Paris’ offerings have been focussing on utility so far.

When Rochas cranked up the early 60s influence – it did what it said on the tin – 60s’ silouettes and palettes. Behives, straight cut dresses, flaired trousers, velvet suits and Grease shirts. The collection makes wonder why Rochas fans will custom the designer rather than vintage stores?

Dries van Outen offered luxurious safari inspired threads: leopard print jackets (faux furs?), leafy and palm tree printed dresses and jackets in organza – which are not drastically remote from Erdem’s classics. A weekend hunting in the safari is far off from this collection, but more like the rich sipping champagne in a 4×4, glancing out to the giraffes and lions at a distance. The metallic jackets and dresses however, could jeopradise their lives in an open-top vehicle.

The only high point of the day was Gareth Pugh, front-rowed by P.Diddy and Rihanna. The audience were treated to a show of space-warrior strong women and some soft, metrosexual male clothing. Women were tucked and bound into leather boots and highly structured cheveron padded jackets.

Another British crown jewel – Giles Deacon – is showing in Paris. According to reports in British newspapers, the designer is struggling to produce the same resonance he was able to command in England. Nevertheless the clever businessman has crafted another girlie collection – tutu dresses and underwear as outerwear (grey sheepskin bathrobe with huge pockets!) . Giles continued to exact the subtle decorations in his designs, this time cloud like edges – laser cut of course.  Enough about the clothes! It has to be the bags! Fluffy and furry tote not unlike Totoro’s soot monsters with ginormous eyes, bear handbags…

Giles

Tortoro’s Soot Ball

* * * * * * 6

Skip to the bags! From spiders, dinosaurs to Tortoro’s soot ball! The bag gets Susie Lau of SusieBubble so sqeamish! And who won’t get excited with this cute number? The clothes are classic Giles palette, girly and candy-flossed. Mildly 60s influenced and many bra top tu-tu dresses. Karoline Kurkova opened the show.

Rochas

Grease and Cheesy

* * 2

Dries van Outen

Mild New Look Influence on Safari Wear

* * * 3

Simply branding the collection as utility safari wear is admittedly an understatement. The modified New Look coupled with a boyfriend jacket; combat trousers top with a sleeveless suit jacket etc etc. Dries van Outen is bringing androgyny to a new level. However the mish mash doesn’t work out as well as it wished to be, the collection looked a bit disorientated and in need of direction.

Gareth Pugh

Bullet-proof space warriors

* * * * * * * 7

This show reverses the traditional social perception of men and women. The Pugh woman this time is the tough soldier, uncompromising and cold. Cheverons all point to the face with the models wearing deadpan expressions and a dark aura above the brows. The men are vulnerable with barely there or soft clothing. Pugh style make-up and Tom Ford-esque sleek hairstyle. Talk about metrosexuality. The show culminated in a floor length dress decorated with 20s slinkies that are arranged in an old philosopher’s silver hair. A show for thoughts.