Tiltillating seduction — you’ve got us teeming with raw anticipation, MR TOM FORD!

That was the latest we’ve seen of Tom Ford’s design for women. More precisely, woman, for Julianne Moore at the premier of Ford’s debut film — A Single Man.

He has privately showed his latest and first collection under his eponymous label during New York Fashion Week on the 13th September, 2010, to a select few of the industry’s most esteemed editors and stylists — such as Carine Roitfeld (French Vogue), Anna Wintour (US Vogue), Suzy Menkes (International Herald Tribune), Hilary Alexander (Daily Telegraph), Jim Shi (freelance contributor to the likes of the FT, Vogue China, V Magazine, Marie Claire). They have all signed confidentiality agreements.

Photography was banned at Tom Ford’s Madison Avenue flagship where the fashion show was staged. Everybody except Terry Richardson, Tom Ford’s turn-to photographer who takes charge of all of Tom Ford’s advertising campaigns, was allowed to snapped away like a child at a candy store. Richardson laid on the floor, spreaded out on the carpet, and clicked away senseless at a star studded cast of models. These pictures will not be released until January 2011, when the clothes are manufactured and are ready to go, in order to prevent plaigiarism.

The impressive fleet of models included Stella Tennant and Beyoncé, Julianne Moore and closing the show — Daphne Guiness who decorated her look with her own diamond jewellery.

 According to reports, Tom Ford showed every outfit there is to turn any woman into sex kittens  — the revamped Le Smoking, courtesy of his mentor Yves Saint Laurent (who never approved of Tom Ford to the degree Ford would have liked, according to Betty Catroux), structured pantsuit in black and in leopard, sheer gowns with frills, chatreuse chiffon blouse…

Beyoncé, according to Suzy Menkes, “in a silver sequined dress, sashayed toward Tom Ford… turned by the marble fireplace, where vases were filled with cherry blossoms intertwined with orchids, tossed her ample curls and revealed a hazy tease of nudity on her famous booty.” The diversity of  models that Tom Ford has used, from single ladies to yummy mummy  (Karlie Kloss to Natalia Vodianova), from skinny to curvy (Freja Beha to Beyoncé), has demonstrated Tom Ford’s confidence in satisfying every woman’s need.


Despite the hush-hush nature of the show, Hamish Bowles managed to sketch the outfits on Karen Elson and Beyoncé as seen on Vogue.com.

Only Tom Ford can bring back the exclusivity in fashion. The days when haute couture or even trendy fashion was only available for the few private eyes to see. This day and age when internet can air a show to 10,000 miles away almost instantly, this Tom Ford way of masterminding his [truly] debut collection is certainly ingenious.

He has sent the fashion world wild with delicious eagerness. Oh wow, I don’t  remember feeling so restless for a collection ever before.

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Alexander Wang Spring Summer 2011

First reaction: stomach turns. 2 more exits, feeling a bit nausesous, “sorry, am I at an A-level textiles graduation show?” Then projectile vomit ensued until the very, very end. When the out-of-the-dustbin styles have disappeared and Taekwando and detective inspired jackets salvaged my now stomach acid laced mouth.

I have never been a huge fan of Alexander Wang. I think this show is the manifestation of why. He has always been a hit or miss. One season out of three an idea will strike him and the presentation will be good, nice and consistent. A lot of the time he has no idea what the fuck he’s doing. Even the front rowed Bill Cunningham looked quizzical, he must be asking “what the fuuuccck??”

Back to business, to sum up, Alexander Wang has returned to his college days, applying a patch of material block here, a cut out there. His inspiration was a dress from a charity bin for $5. He chopped off bits and pieces and replaced said area with juxtaposing fabrics or when he was really clueless — he simply ignored the unstylised empty space. WHAT A MESS!

[Even the shoes are fugly… College experimentation prevailed, he has cut out a Timberland boot to arrive here. I hope none of them are named after any models this time]

I am sorry, but I cannot understand how did he amass so much media attention in the first place. He struggles with ideas and yet he insists on putting out 4 collections a year (either Anna says so or to keep up with the demand from department stores).

Actually, if you squint — some of the pieces aren’t that bad. If you pick a jacket out, you wonder why didn’t it get matched to a skirt or a dress? What can I say? SACK THE STYLIST!

Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2011

Before we talk about the clothes, can I just say I am blown away by the shoes. If I were allowed only one item for New York Fashion Week (albeit it has merely just started), it will be these Nicolas Kirkwood for Prabal Gurung shoes.

In an interview with the US Vogue, Nicolas admitted that he has never met the Rodarte girls nor Prabal in person, the designs were forwarded to and fro via emails, et voila, Nicolas’ first runway shoes of the season — utterly brilliant. Girly and bold at the same time, it might be kitsch to say, but these shoes will go with everything. And so far, judging from the distinctly prevalent whites and monotones on the runway, these will be the investment of the season!

It might be rude to say this but the shoes have stolen the show. Have you noticed the lack of accessories on Prabal’s girls? Well, with these heels, there is no need.

In an interview that Kiwibiwi’s done with Nicolas recently, he mentioned that there will be bolts and nuts for the Rodarte runway. He will also be playing with “wax” (wax?). He will be utilising fun elements for the runway shoes that aren’t necessarily his signature, but are fun to do anyway. Nicolas is also doing shoes for the Erdem runway, focussing on Erdem’s signature prints. And now, more of these orgasmic shoes!

I am a sucker for colour blocking. So when the show opened with psychedelic clash of acidic colour — bright pink, cyan and orange — in a form fitted dress! Wow! The best thing about this dress is the thought Prabal put into the chest/collarbone patch. It gives the illusion of an elognated shoulder, making everybody a clothes horse.

He also showed a lot of trend worthy palette common at NYFW — the nudes, the whites and the yellows. Above right are two nudes apt for the office.

The print goes back as early as August when Associated Press went to his studio for an interview. The print was on a painted bit of paper hanging on the wall. LOVE the cape. (See below for alternative views)

Generally a VERY good collection for a one year old brand. I’d wear everything to be honest. Prabal does brilliantly from casuals to workwear, tea dresses to dinner dresses.

Let’s hope he is not going to turn into another Jason Wu or Alexander Wang (money minded to the point they have forgotten what is the meaning of excitement and thrill)…