There is a time when you see something so brilliant, you feel ambivalent about announcing the awesomeness to the whole wide world because you may selfishly keep the news to yourself. The Serbian designer who is truly international – grew up in Copenhagen and educated in Rome and now finally bases in London, Nana Aganovich, a Central Saint Martin MA graduate, creates a captivating collection that makes me feel just like that. Nana and her partner Brooke Taylor explains this AW11 collection in their own words:
The collection emulates equal portions of a glamourous old movie as well as a futuristic flick. The protagonist could be a lady, chauffeured around in a Karmann Ghia, exiting the car into flashes of limelight. At the same time she can be a feminine commander, marches into a space shuttle, calling through the tannoy, announcing each andriod’s daily duties.
The couture is simple, and the aesthetic is respectful for the natural beauty of a woman. The forward thinking emulates from these clothes and the excellent craftsmanship adds to my enthusiasm for the label.
There is a mathematical quality about these dresses. A precise and executed curve rests on the chest which is reminescent of a camel back. The colour-blocked fabric juxtaposes each other to accentuate the contrast. Asymmetry is the certainly the keyword here, but having the correct balance in pushing such a design is of paramount too.
Take Alexis Mabille, the new ‘enfant terrible’ as an example.By no means I am trying to villify Alexis’ creations – and as a matter of fact I’m rather fond of the collection – but the in-your-faceness somehow hinders the masses to stomach the clothes. Aganovich’s Spring Summer 2010 collection, on the other hand, spelt out the key to an auspicious result: be as adventurous as you want, but never tread too far from wearability.
The magic of the SS10 collection lies in its simplicity. The idea pivots on puzzles. The main dress can be topped with an asymmetric ornament piece – a strong shouldered pelerine like a short cape; a part truncated long cloak which can be cinched at the waist or an oversized single collar. This is a nice concept where one or two top pieces plus a couple of dresses give you an assortment of looks.
This is not to say that the dress in itself cannot survive without the decorative ‘puzzle’. Without the funky top-half, the main body is an elegant structure of fluidity and elegance. To inject the funk, some of the dresses are Kruella styled to split in the midriff: both colourwise, and pleat-wise. Clean pleats, clean decorative lines are all exquisitely sewed on. It’s funny how a combo can look so minimalist, but yet posseses so much details at the same time.
Put it simply, I haven’t felt so excited about a collection in so long. Etro, yeah, yeah. Louis Vuitton, meh. Sometimes I wonder why individual designers don’t get more credits than they deserve. This one here, conjures up so much
excitement I can barely contain myself!
Nana Aganovich launched her womenswear label in 2005. In 2006, she showed a collection centered around ‘The Dream of Beef’ in Vauxhall Fashion Scout in 2006.
An activist since she was 15, she and her former partner designed a collection of clothes to take part in the May Day Riot in central London, with the models wearing clown make up.
She now designs with partner Brooke Taylor in Whitechapel with an atelier at a factory outside Hong Kong. The CSM MA graduate is a co-founder of the Missing Sock studio in Hong Kong, as well as a contributor on ShowStudio. Her label is now named Aganovich 0.3 and shows in Paris in the form of sculpture/installation and clothes exhibition. Her website is www.aganovich.com but it is currently under construction.