Paris Fashion Week has opened to a rather mundane beginning. While techniques such as digital print and laser cut plus a mish-mash of ideas dominated the runways of London and Milan; Paris’ offerings have been focussing on utility so far.
When Rochas cranked up the early 60s influence – it did what it said on the tin – 60s’ silouettes and palettes. Behives, straight cut dresses, flaired trousers, velvet suits and Grease shirts. The collection makes wonder why Rochas fans will custom the designer rather than vintage stores?
Dries van Outen offered luxurious safari inspired threads: leopard print jackets (faux furs?), leafy and palm tree printed dresses and jackets in organza – which are not drastically remote from Erdem’s classics. A weekend hunting in the safari is far off from this collection, but more like the rich sipping champagne in a 4×4, glancing out to the giraffes and lions at a distance. The metallic jackets and dresses however, could jeopradise their lives in an open-top vehicle.
The only high point of the day was Gareth Pugh, front-rowed by P.Diddy and Rihanna. The audience were treated to a show of space-warrior strong women and some soft, metrosexual male clothing. Women were tucked and bound into leather boots and highly structured cheveron padded jackets.
Another British crown jewel – Giles Deacon – is showing in Paris. According to reports in British newspapers, the designer is struggling to produce the same resonance he was able to command in England. Nevertheless the clever businessman has crafted another girlie collection – tutu dresses and underwear as outerwear (grey sheepskin bathrobe with huge pockets!) . Giles continued to exact the subtle decorations in his designs, this time cloud like edges – laser cut of course. Enough about the clothes! It has to be the bags! Fluffy and furry tote not unlike Totoro’s soot monsters with ginormous eyes, bear handbags…
Tortoro’s Soot Ball
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Skip to the bags! From spiders, dinosaurs to Tortoro’s soot ball! The bag gets Susie Lau of SusieBubble so sqeamish! And who won’t get excited with this cute number? The clothes are classic Giles palette, girly and candy-flossed. Mildly 60s influenced and many bra top tu-tu dresses. Karoline Kurkova opened the show.
Grease and Cheesy
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Dries van Outen
Mild New Look Influence on Safari Wear
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Simply branding the collection as utility safari wear is admittedly an understatement. The modified New Look coupled with a boyfriend jacket; combat trousers top with a sleeveless suit jacket etc etc. Dries van Outen is bringing androgyny to a new level. However the mish mash doesn’t work out as well as it wished to be, the collection looked a bit disorientated and in need of direction.
Bullet-proof space warriors
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This show reverses the traditional social perception of men and women. The Pugh woman this time is the tough soldier, uncompromising and cold. Cheverons all point to the face with the models wearing deadpan expressions and a dark aura above the brows. The men are vulnerable with barely there or soft clothing. Pugh style make-up and Tom Ford-esque sleek hairstyle. Talk about metrosexuality. The show culminated in a floor length dress decorated with 20s slinkies that are arranged in an old philosopher’s silver hair. A show for thoughts.