East Meets West
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Huge pea coat plus kimonos mantle was almost reminiscent of the Axis. Veronica Etro has abolished the heavy tribal reference and paisley motif in favour of the oriental glamour – cheongsam tops and beautiful multicoloured furs. Etro also ventured into digital print silk – demure quality unlike the fashion forward Katrantzou or Basso and Brooke.
Stir-fry of Lavin and Chanel
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Manageress or design exexcutive (read Samantha Cameron) will fall over their heels for Aquilano and Rimondi’s business friendly frivolity. A continuum of unfinished trimmings from the SS11 trend, tweed hems are raw and frayed. Despite what the tag-line wrote, this is nonetheless a very bankable collection. Ostrich feathers and swarovski crystal finish makes a nice diversion from the standard dark 2-piece suit. Key item? The thin bow belt in yellow and green.
Marco de Vincenzo
70s Faded Photographs
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Printed (?) wintry landscapes of balding twigs and a setting sun against a grey and bitterly cold background enlightens a set of wool cardigans, jumpers, wrap dresses and flair trousers. 70s sepia feel run through the (almost) entire catwalk albeit mini-skirts, the noughties’ uniform, are cinched to the waist with a layer contour belt. Padded jackets and a clingy metallic number refused to be categorised by the tagline.
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Secretaries tapping away on typewriters. Catch Me If You Can style women in beehives held in chunky knit headbands. Lots of aran knit jumpers that will make an Irish man proud – except the feminised thin red bow belt. Comical exaggeration of boobs – buttons or blunt version of Madonna’s conical bra. Use of plus size model also.
Upper East Side Fetish
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Buckles, straps, bras, cut-out brassiere dresses. Shiny turquoise, crimson, sangria. Body-cons, finely pleated tutus and biker jackets will get daddy’s credit cards working. As Christopher Kane puts it – ‘Ballet crosses fetish’. Models look like 2 year old babies in flaming lips.
Dolce & Gabbana
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Showered with Maria shaped gold pendants on florals, lace… Call it cheesy, but the Don’s wife sees the collection and draws a cross on her chest. Some Dolce & Gabbana classics sneak in between sheer or lacey stretchy tunics. Bazillions of tailored jackets.